The Chef and The Grape

By Chef Kristof Gillese

It is said that to write with conviction one must write what one knows.

How then do I write the story of the Baessler family and Corcelettes Estate Winery?

I’ve never met the family in person, never rode the golf cart around the vineyard with Urs (Papa Baessler), crushed grapes in my hand with son Charlie or tasted (Mom) Barbara’s tapenade that uses organic garlic from the property. Heck, I’ve never even been to the property! And so how can I hope to share their story with honesty and enthusiasm?

Well, living in the modern era does allow for some technological advantages that enable conversations over long distances, but, it is one of our oldest tools for story-telling that enlightened me as to who the Baesslers really are: wine. These wines tell a story.

I was lucky enough to share an hour on the phone with Charlie one sunny Saturday afternoon recently; he was in his cellar tasting through the new vintages as we “chewed the fat”… funny how winemakers are always “working” with a glass of wine in their hands, right? Well I figured it would be wise of me to join him and so I poured a dram of the Corcelettes Gewürztraminer and settled in for a good gab.

Of course I had done my due diligence and read up a bit on the vineyard, the history, etc. – but the one question that wasn’t answered anywhere was “Why?” I knew that the family had a long history in agriculture and I’m only one generation off the farm so I understand the allure of rural life but.. But it’s a big leap from growing grapes to making wine. British Columbia is one of the most expensive and least understood growing regions in the world and so:

“Why make your own wine? Why not just be great grape-growers and sell them?”

It speaks volumes to who Charlie is as a man and how he was raised when he responded that more than just about anything else, it was the daily challenge that motivated him. Yes, he loves this corner of the Similkameen Valley where the mountain sagebrush seems to stream down glacial carved hillsides, cascading on reefs of cherry blossoms and Chasselas vines. How could he not cherish this place? This is the home his parents crafted for him and his brother John and the place that he has nurtured with his better half Jesce. But the feeling every morning when he wakes, knowing that there is the chance to create something special, something great; that’s the catalyst to devote every day to becoming a better winemaker.

And I thanked Charlie because he had just wandered straight into my next question, leaving me plenty of time to switch wines and move onto the estate blend Trivium: the Chasselas-driven mélange of heady floral and orchard-fruit aromas.

Why choose Chasselas as the focus for the estate? Once again, this is one of the (arguably) most difficult places in the world to make a living at winemaking: why choose such a niche grape? Why not Merlot?

Charlie is as straight-forward as his name indicates… he told me some of what I already knew; that there were only two other wineries out of about 245 in British Columbia that were growing the Swiss varietal and one of them had planted it by accident! What the savvy Baessler family member pointed out though was the business acumen in choosing that as their flagship; in an ocean of Pinot Gris they set themselves apart. And it’s a natural distinction seeing as Chasselas hails from the same place the family does in Switzerland.

This was all making sense to me and quickly I found myself smiling, laughing, enjoying the conversation with this reluctant-winemaker of the north… he shared with me how hard he had struggled, in his youth, to get away from the family farm. He had travelled, pursued a degree, all in the hopes that he wouldn’t have to give his heart to this craft that asks so much… in the end, none of us can escape our passions.

And I realized that though we had been speaking for less than an hour, I actually knew Charlie quite well. Or, perhaps, it’s better to say that I understand him and his family wines. Without making the ever-modest Charlie blush let me say that the wines are much like him: dynamic and filled with promise. They are young wines and, as such, have some rough edges – but which one of us were any different?

And so I leave you with these thoughts… if the nose seems closed, don’t worry. If the acid seems a bit overwhelming, don’t worry. These are, as I said, young wines and, as such, will take some time to “grow into themselves.” Think of them like the awkward teenager you  knew in high school; all elbows and knees one day and then, seemingly the next, graceful as a dancer. That’s what all of these wines are: teenagers. Understand that, give them the room they need to mature a bit, and you’ll have some extraordinary examples of varietal and region for very modest prices. Don’t forget: once upon a time someone took a chance on you.

*DO NOT SERVE ANY OF THESE WINES TOO COLD OR RISK LOSING THE AROMATICS: 15c+*

2013 Gewürztraminer

Similkameen Valley DVA, British Columbia

155 cases produced

$18+ CAD, 89 points, Very Good Value

Classic. This is utterly classic “Gew” and reminds me of top-tier work from Alsace, France; ripe kumquats, exotic floral tones, spicy apricot chutney – the bouquet is utterly First-Class. On the palate it certainly tastes like cold-climate wine; crisp, steely, mineral-driven acid that will be appreciated by those who love Chablis and a medium concentration of youthful flavours that mimics the nose well with a bent towards more green apple/young pear tones. Very good balance and concentration (after a full day decanting) this wine welcomes another year or two of aging to soften the overly zealous acid. Enjoy 2016-2020

Don’t be intimidated by wine with full acid! Use it! Consider a traditional Alsatian dish: choucroute garnie (sauerkraut) with grilled sausage, smoked gruyère cheese (or gouda) and nugget potatoes… the Alsatian flavors will naturally pair well when balanced against rich Alsatian foods! The fatty sausage and rich cheese will bring balance to zippy acid, the smoke from the grill plays off the salty mineral tones and the earthy nugget potatoes is like the black pencil that frames all of these wonderful colours.

2013 “Trivium”

50% Chasselas, 36% Gewürztraminer, 14% Pinot Gris

365 cases produced

$18+ CAD, 88 points, Very Good Value

A hefty nod to the winery’s Swiss roots; I had to go to my textbooks to refresh my memory what exactly Chasselas was and what it was bringing to this blend. Here is a wine with its own structure, its own sense of balance and its own dynamic flavors; once again smacking more of Chablis than California, this wine exudes punchy minerality and on the nose is alive with white and yellow flowers (dandelions and white peonies), green and golden apples and a background of lemon zest. The brisk palate carries its full lemon-zest driven acid well and, once again, has a medium concentration of youthfully exuberant flavours mimicking well the aromas. Good balance (after a full 24 hour decant) and very good structure, this wine also responds well to minimal aging: enjoy 2016-2020+

To me this wine is meant for white fish: trout, cod, red snapper, orange roughy, etc. Think of the place the grapes are from and then think of the food that is naturally found there: the Similkameen Valley is nestled in the mountains with rivers stocked full of little Rainbow trout or the less well-known but utterly delicious Mountain Whitefish. A bottle of this wine with a couple of whitefish, a hot pan on a campfire, some roasted potatoes and a dab of butter… Heaven.

2013 “Oracle”

100% Zweigelt rosé

125 cases produced

$18+ CAD, 88 points, Very Good Value

Rosé is the ultimate counterfoil to the sweltering heat of summer; crisp berry tones at once refresh and awaken the palate. This particular rosé is a great example of the adaptable nature of Zweigelt; not only in producing richly textured red wine blends. I love the freshness of the aromas: how it bursts with bowls full of ripe strawberries and cherry blossoms, a backdrop of stony minerality and nuances of incense (Frankincense, Myrrh – when it opens fully). Full lemon-drop acid frames a well-concentrated, youthful palate that mimics the aromas with good clarity; focusing more on minerality and citrus whilst the exotic notes fall silent unfortunately. Very good balance and structure, this wine also rewards minimal cellaring: enjoy 2016-2020

I think this is a very particular wine and, as such, requires very particular food. I’m of the notion that either grilled Roman-style sopressata panini with charred eggplant hummus and fresh basil leaves OR Mumbai mutton curry are THE pairings. Try either as both dishes are epicurean experiences!

Many thanks to my friends the Baessler family of Corcelettes Estate Winery for the generous sample bottles.

– Kristof Gillese: Trained chef, certified wine steward and proud journalist. To chef Kristof it is the story that takes priority: to tell the tale of common people accomplishing uncommon goals. In the world of wine these tales are prolific. It is chef Kristof’s privilege to have worked with, and/or told the story of, luminaries such as Pierre-Henry Gagey of Maison Jadot, Nik Weis of St Urbans-Hof, Ray Signorello of Signorello Estates and Ezra Cipes of Summerhill Pyramid Winery; leaders in the industry. With almost three decades of experience working with the magical synergy between food and wine, chef Kristof is proud to share the stories of these amazing stewards of the land. These articles showcase a respect for the balance between our current mercantile economy and the-now-in-vogue ancestral farming methods/biodynamics/organic farming principles. All articles are written with a profound reverence for the family aspect to winery culture as, to this writers understanding, nothing has ever had a more far-reaching effect than the love and devotion for a parent to a child. All great wineries are built by parents for their children and grandchildren and it is because of this that chef Kristof writes.

You can read more of his rants-on-wine including full portfolio reviews, interviews with winemakers and notes from the illustrious #WineTastingCircle on his website www.TheChefandTheGrape.com and his blog www.AStudentofWine.blogspot.com.

Twitter: AStudentofWine and on Facebook: TheChefandTheGrape

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