Northern Exposure 
By Janine Toms

Driving down a deserted highway in our 1984 caravan, the north paves way for long isolated days on the road. But the asphalt monotony gets a shake up now and again thanks to a sprinkling of travellers on route.
Taking respite from the road, we dived into Coral Bay. Known for the easily accessible Ningaloo Reef (pictured), the world heritage site was an ideal spot to park up for a few days.

Managing to avoid a sting from the translucent jelly fish, the encompassing rugged terrain held an array of local wildlife. We spotted emu, kangas and an echidna – the cutest prickly pear of an animal. In no obvious hurry, the needly resident shimmied his way across the main road. As our four-legged friends scurried homeward, the sun made its descent and the night sky lit up. Taking up a fishing rod in the moonlight, I hobnobbed it with the local anglers.
In Exmouth the desert landscape was dotted in curious-looking mounds of dirt. These five-foot high oddities turned out to be above-ground termite hills, like a dug up ant colony’s home.
Further down the track and on route to Broome, the heat reached a scorching 30+ degrees. This was met with near delirium in a non air-con van. Rolling down the windows was met with a blast of hairdryer heat. Luckily refreshments were close at hand courtesy of Matsos’ Brewery. The unassuming exterior led to an impressive lineup of unusual beers. The chalkboard rhymed off the tap’s offerings. These included Spicy Chilli, Sweet Mango, and Ham and Cheese ale; all were sampled with anticipation.

Broome is a town basked in tourism with one of the world’s most celebrated beachfronts. But its waterfront history is better remembered as a commercial pearling hub. Back then Japanese migrants and Aboriginals were ‘enlisted’ for pearling hauls. With primitive diving suits comprised of bronze helmets and boots, it proved to be a short-lived occupation.
With Broome’s history told the road ahead lead to Derby, the final minute town before Darwin. There’s not much here to bowl over a visitor, but it ended up being a highpoint of our trip.
Regan was deemed ‘King for a Day’ after landing a 50 pound Golden Grunter. The mammoth fish was justly named, as it made great protests throughout the half hour of skilful reeling. Too tuckered out to pull the fish from the water, a local from the spectators on the pier selflessly volunteered to climb down to the water’s edge, much to the chagrin of the resident crocs. Nearby, backpackers rejoiced as a free feed was dished out that night.
The glory subsided as we rolled into Darwin; the last notch of the Northern Territory. A lively, edge-of-the-world mentality ensued. The bustling hub on the water’s edge provided an exciting place to unwind. With four markets to choose from, the night ones had the expected bric-a-brac, but featured a fire show. We later discovered the young performers lived like vagabonds in vans by the waterfront. Not that I can throw stones.

Janine Toms is a world-traveler who spent several years working as a journalist in the Columbia Valley.

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